TREND FALL-WINTER 08/09
SUCH BEAUTIFUL BEASTS
In the world of (fine) jewellery with its endless possibilities, every major house has devoted a large part of its work to the animal kingdom, be it with severity, humour, daring, impertinence or poetry. Fine stones, rare pearls, black diamonds; these beautiful beasts have truly been well treated, and with timeless savoir-faire. Whatever your particular animal mascot, allow yourself to be enchanted by our guided tour through this exceptional bestiary. By Nathalie Surret.
Jeanne Toussaint, creative director of fine jewellery at Cartier at the beginning of the 30s, was the inspiration for Cartier’s collection of wild animal jewellery. However it was not until the meeting between the Duchess of Windsor and Jeanne Toussaint during the 40s that these jewels, spectacular from every angle, achieved real success. Their originality, beauty and technical ingenuity made them true works of art in French fine jewellery. The house recently revealed its latest collection of exceptional fine jewellery, ‘Dragons and Chimaeras”, at the biennial antiques exhibition in Paris. Presented were seventy pieces of a fantastic puzzle where creatures both real and imaginary crossed paths in full flight; chimaeras, feathered snakes, unbridled dragons…And there were also magnificent and moving pieces, like the fire-breathing dragon holding a diamond in its mouth with a richly coloured volcanic aura made up of extraordinary carmine tones; rows of spinels, rubies engraved with a dragon motif, rubellite cabochons, garnets and spessartines.
Boucheron plunges us into its fantasy world with a bewitching owl to join its marvellous collection. Thanks to the house’s magical ring, this creature becomes mythical, a symbol of wisdom and longevity. In white gold with amethysts, diamonds, purple and pink sapphires, the Boucheron owl, available as a ring or a pendant, is the ideal talisman for the mysterious enchantress deep within you!
“Attrape-moi… si tu m’aimes”… ‘Catch me if you love me’, says the new jewellery collection from Chaumet, which continues its thread like a spider spins its web. Over the course of winter 2007, 20 new creations – all unique pieces or limited editions – enriched this exceptional collection. Bees, spiders and buds of precious stones hang from a thread, revealing a pastoral, idyllic version of nature, whose canvas is a delicate spider’s web of gold and diamonds. The “Attrape-moi… si tu m’aimes” spider is in white gold, set with 239 pear-cut diamonds on its body (totalling 6.02 carats) and 223 amber-coloured diamonds on its legs, delicately formed to branch out and caress the finger. Its final touches of pink, orange and purple sapphires (7.16 carats) make it completely irresistible.
No need to wait for night to fall before you parade these astonishing creations – display them and adorn yourself with your favourite animals. Wear them without pretension and dare to discover unexpected combinations. Large pieces are obligatory – that is true accessorising. Look at actress Kristin Scott Thomas, who wears the famous De Grisogono ‘Panther’ bracelets set with an emerald and the jeweller’s celebrated black diamonds. Pin your brooches on the lapel of your jacket or on your fur collar to add a touch of sparkle. Layer on your rings and amass pendants and bracelets. Create your own animal kingdom and shine in all your glory!