FASHION AUTUMN-WINTER 2008
ONCE A DANDY, ALWAYS A DANDY.
Dandyism is a way of life. There is no room for imitation or adaptation - it is made up of very definite and precise rules. On the runway, men's fashion is often punctuated with touches of this very British style. Julien Pènègry explores why.
The Dandy must aspire to be ceaselessly sublime; he must live and sleep before a mirror, stated Charles Baudelaire in 'Mon coeur mis à nu'. This is still the aesthetic designers are after when they draw on this sartorial movement that goes back to the time of the English court. So, one has to delve into the London fog to see this winter's emerging trends. As you'd expected, English stylists know better than anyone how to manipulate the ways and customs of the style. Take Sir Paul Smith, whose colorful designs and trademark striped fabric are a starting point for the modern dandy, chic and glam. Buttoned all the way up for a more severe look or relaxed and left a little loose? That's for you to decide. But if you do go for the more reserved version, think about adding a block color Hackett tie or a striped one from Canali or Brioni. And rest safe in the knowledge that a little glimpse of a hirsute chest never hurt anyone... Add to this a gray or black suit, depending on your own preference. Whether you go for block color or stripes again, there are plenty of different shapes and cuts available ñ take a look at those worn large over at YSL, Gianfranco Ferré and Bottega Veneta. To cut a more sober figure, you might prefer the narrower silhouette of Ermenegildo Zegna, Aquascutum or Valentino, who all add irresistible charm to tailoring. In any case, a three-piece suit is strongly recommended, with a traditional three-buttoned waistcoat to add to your English attire.
The making or breaking of a perfect dandy is in his overcoat, and there can be no doubt that the trench is the signature piece of the refined look you are going for. Burberry Prorsum, Angelo Nardelli and Calvin Klein are all constantly producing classic variations of the famous raincoat. Jean-Paul Gaultier and Louis Vuitton make more ethereal, light and capricious revivals of this wardrobe essential. Now your outfit lacks only a pair of patent shoes: a good pair of Derbys by Church's, Cesare Paciotti, Bally or Sergio Rossi. But a word of warning: tapered toes are no longer in. Go for a rounded shape and make sure they shine - after all, shoes are the first thing you notice about a person. The quality of your shoes is of prime importance. Just one fashion faux pas and all the effort put into your outfit will have gone to waste.
Accessories are also necessary to give a man the presence and grandeur he needs to bear up under any circumstance. So don't forget the handkerchief that will sit in your jacket pocket, it should complement and enhance your shirt. In terms of bags, which will add a little extra something to your look, Hermès make a very simple doctor style while Tumi lean more towards travel bags.
Setting yourself up with a wardrobe worthy of even the greatest dandy is an essential exercise in style. Now all you need to do is prepare to play the part, and watch the women fall at your feet!
